Music floods the city throughout the entire fiesta and you will be able to find anything from folk festivals and Basque flute concerts to street discos and rock concerts. The music that is most in tune with the Sanfermines however, continues to be the music played by txarangas and peñas that fill the streets at all hours.
Pamplona has a total of 16 peñas, teams or groups of friends with their own headquarters, different symbols (banners, coats-of-arms, colours and loose shirts) and of course, a packed schedule over the San Fermin festivities. They were born in the mid-nineteenth century in Pamplona when there were only 30 000 inhabitants. At that time, society did not provide any specific recreation to youth, such as it is now. This is why the arrival of the festivals meant a special opportunity to enjoy as a rare occasion.
150 years ago, youth used to go out together and meet at the bull ring, exactly like now. Groups were known as El Trueno, La Ochena, La Cuatrena or El Llavín, and used to carry a banner with some drawings, messages to foreigners or lyrics from songs, and greetings to anybody who was visiting the city during those days.
The Peñas Evolution.
The twentieth century witnessed the transformation of those groups of friends into Peñas. Although initially these youngsters used to get together because of political, religious and professional affinities or by the simple reason of living close to each other, after some time it was their friendship the main cause of keeping together.
Peñas are identified by their people, their banners and, of course, their music. When looking at the old pictures we can easily recognize the humbleness of their bands, which were usually reduced to flutes, txistus and guitars. The number of member’s increases year by year and nowadays they became powerful groups of music with trombones, trumpets and drums. They pass through the narrow streets of the old town and impregnate the environment with the music composed by Manuel Turrillas from the thirties. He created the hymns of the most popular Peñas: Aldapa, Anaitasuna, La Jarana, Muthiko y Oberena, as well as the popular song interpreted by the runners right before the Encierro every morning in front of San Fermín.
The Peñas historically show their banners, which originally showed some lyrics but afterwards became light critics referred to the municipality. The fiesta became internationally renowned over the years and there are now Peñas from other countries such as the “Swedish Peña”, “the Swedes’ Peña”, the “Club Taurino of New York”, the “Friends of Pamplona” from Miami, the German “Peña Borussia”, the British “Frank” Peña and the French “La Gite” and “Les Chauds” Peñas.
The sunny terraces
The peñas are the stars of one of the busiest non-official events, when they enter the bullring (at 18.30) and then leave (at 20.30). The peñas enter the bullring with their banners held high and brass bands sounding, decked with buckets brimming with sangria, kalimotxo (red wine and coca-cola) and huge pots with mouth-watering afternoon snacks (ox stew, ajoarriero –puréed garlic, cod and potato, lamb in a tomato and pepper sauce, snails, beans, etc) that will be eaten after the third bull has fallen.
Traditionally, the peñas pack out the sunny side of the bullring, the cheaper part or the ringbulls, whilst their brass bands fill the air with a vast repertoire of music, from the more traditional pieces composed by Turrillas specifically for the event to the recent hits of the year, such as “La chica yeyé” or “Smoke on the water”. The Monumental bullring in Pamplona is therefore a stranger to the characteristic silence of bullrings, although the bullfighter who wins the affection of the peñas is sure to win their attention as well – at least before the afternoon feast anyway.
The Peñas’ Day
The traditional day of the peñas is celebrated the last weekend of June. This day, the banners which will identify every peña in San Fermin are officially presented. A diverse number of events are organized this day, addressed to all generations. In addition, 2008 coincided with the celebration of the IX World Championship Goitibeheras, which added traditional dancing shows by Oberena and Muthiko Alaiak. Las Peñas take advance of this special day to sell their shirts and CDs of songs. The official program of the festivities and the red scarves are also available this day.
El Bullicio Pamplones celebrates its 75th anniversary this year. This is one of the oldest peñas, and counts on 460 members: 300 adults and 160 txikis (juniors). All the members of the peña wear their official badge embroidered in their red scarf.
The Peñas organize several dinners to celebrate the popular Escalera (ladder) towards San Fermin: this happens every January the 1st, February the 2nd, March the 3rd, April the 4th, May the 5th, June the 6th, and finally, July the 7th San Fermin!